Similarities between vacations in the Caribbean and wine exist on many planes, especially when speaking (or writing) of St. Barths. Both are hedonistic pleasures, which appeal to the discerning individual. In St. Barths, more than other islands in the Caribbean, food and wine reign supreme. If you want beauty, relaxation, combined with gustatory pleasure, St. Barths is the Island for you.
Arrival in St. Barths is the beginning of the pleasure. The airport is quite small, so chances are you will be arriving in a small propeller powered plane from one of the neighboring islands with a larger airport. It is a 10 minute flight from St. Maarten, and before you know it the plane descends to approximately 25 feet above the ocean before it reaches the runway that starts at the beachfront. It is a little unnerving, but quite exhilarating to not only see the reefs through the crystal clear water, but also the expressions on the faces of the people on the beach, almost suggesting, "you lucky dog!"
St. Barth’s is so small, that when you get off the plane you just walk 50 feet, flash your passport, grab your luggage, and you’re ready for a plantation punch and the beach. The hotel I was staying at, Hotel St. Barth, Isle de France, had a van waiting for the guests of the hotel. The ride to the hotel was less than a ten-minute drive, during which our driver described different parts of the island, which was a pleasant introduction to vacation.
The hotel has 30 rooms (large by St. Barths standards) located on Baie de Flamands, one of the beautiful beaches in St. Barths, as well as one of most beautiful in the Caribbean. The hotel has a tennis court, a small air-conditioned gym, and a pool. The beach’s sand is silky soft, while the ocean can range from calm to playfully rough. One of the nicest surprises was the lack of sharp shells and stones in the wake of the ocean. If you want marine life there are ample scuba sites in St. Barths. The rooms consist of ocean-view and garden rooms and suites. The rooms have charming antiques, and large marble bathrooms. The rooms are air-conditioned, although I found the evenings to be surprisingly cool.
The restaurant of the Hotel, La Case de L’Isle Flamands, is excellent. I only had the opportunity to have dinner there once, since there are so many fine places to eat in St. Barths. However, I had lunch at the hotel several times and was rarely disappointed. To give you an idea of the kind of fare served, I think that it is imperative that I tell you about my meal. As an introduction to St. Barths cuisine, I started with the Salade De Gambas Poêlées Et Parmesan, Vinaigrette D’Épices(salad of sautéed shrimps, parmesan cheese, and a spicy vinaigrette) followed by Croustillant De Canard Au Foie Gras Et Jus De Truffles(crispy duck filet with foie gras and truffle sauce). Trust me that it was as good as it sounds. If you are anything like me you can’t get enough foie gras, or truffles for that matter. I know what you’re saying, "well what about the wine?"; I’m getting there. The all-French wine list was short, but not without merit, covering quite a bit of different appellations in France. As I was the only person having a dish that begged for red, I lost the battle for the wine, but won the war. We started with a 1997 ‘Baron L’ Pouilly Fumé by Ladoucette, that went perfectly with my shrimp salad. The Pouilly Fumé’s crisp acidity and smoky personality enhanced the Caribbean spices, while refreshing the palate. Our second wine, a 1997 Condrieu by Jaboulet wasn’t the ideal match with the duck, but the rich, oily style of the wine stood it’s ground against the duck’s strong flavors. As if all that wasn’t enough, I couldn’t resist the Bananes Pays Flambées Au Vieux Rhum Glace Aux Épices Doux(local bananas <<flambées>> with old rum spice ice cream). Hungry? The prices of the food are moderate by St. Barths standards, and the wine list is a mix of bargains and some overpriced wines (beware of the Bordeaux).
Besides the beautiful view from the hotel, there are many different things to see and do in St. Barths. The main town is Gustavia, a quaint Caribbean town with a European feel that has many things to do. The marina in town is where most of the watersports are located; there are plenty of places to shop, and nice places to have lunch, or an evening drink. If you like cigars, Jannick and Patrick Gerthofer will help you pick out something that suits your taste at Comptoir du Cigare et du Panama located in Gustavia. The Hotel Gustavia is one of the best places to have a drink while watching the sunset, as it is situated on a hill overlooking Gustavia, and the marina. The hotel has an excellent wine list, but unfortunately with outlandishly high prices.
St. Barths is a quiet island; there are no casinos and a limited nightlife. For people who vacation there, that is one of its attractions. The atmosphere of the island is based on its beauty and tranquility, especially it’s various beautiful beaches. Besides Anse de Flamands, there are many other notable beaches, one of those being Anse de Grande Saline. You can find a description of the various beaches, and Island activities at http://www.St-Barths.com. The nightlife is based on fine dining as you already know, but there are various choices depending on the dining atmosphere you seek.
One of the most elegant restaurants on the Island, Francois Plantation, is a resort as well. As the name would suggest, it is a plantation, colonial style, open-air restaurant, with a walk-in wine cellar and cigar bar. The service and food were so good the first time, we had to come back a second time. Although I was equally impressed the second time, there were some mixed reviews from my companions. However, there was no doubt that everyone enjoyed the wine and the service. This restaurant is definitely an example of the importance of paying attention to the details. To give you an example, I was picking the wines for the evening, and wasn’t sure what I wanted. I had already chosen a 1997 Clos du Mouche by Drouhin to start, but I wasn’t sure what red Burgundy I wanted. So I figured, what better way to learn about a restaurant that prides itself on it’s wine list, than by talking with the sommelier. I told him I was considering a 93’ Corton by Meo-Campuzet, and a 90’ Premier Cru Gevrey-Chambertin by Faiveley. I felt the Corton would be a better wine, but closed. He felt the Corton would be a better choice. So we took his advice and accepted, 5 minutes later he comes back and suggests we try the 91’(which was not on the list), since he felt the 93’ was still young. Now it was getting interesting. For those of you that don’t know, 91’ was an unimpressive vintage in Burgundy, not to say that there weren’t very good wines made. We gave it a shot, and he let us know upfront that if we didn’t like it he would get us a different bottle. The wine turned out to be excellent, but I appreciated the service even more.
If you are looking for a more laid back, fun atmosphere, I would suggest both Maya’s & La Marine. Both restaurants are open-air restaurants; Maya’s is right off the beach, while La Marine is in the Marina. If possible make your reservation at La Marine for a Wednesday or Thursday, where the specialty of the house is steamed mussels in a garlic and white wine broth. At both restaurants the wine lists are tiny but you can still find winners. At La Marine we had a 1997 Pouilly Fuisse by Verget, and a 1995 Pichon Baron. Maya’s is a fun place to go, but may be a little too much of the "scene" for some people. It has a lot of seafood based dishes with Asian accents. I had a delicious tuna sashimi that was served with wasabi and a soy-based sauce. I preferred the ambiance of La Marine, which has an easy-going atmosphere, that attracts locals and travelers alike. If you enjoy this kind of atmosphere, restaurant Au Port is another nice choice. It is the oldest restaurant on the island. Finding these restaurants is relatively easy, as St. Barths is a small island. However, the roads are very narrow and hilly, so I would suggest using a taxi to get around. Although the taxis can be expensive, it is worth it if you will be drinking.
St. Barths is about luxury, consequently it is a very expensive island, but without compromise. In how many hotels will the owner drive you to the airport? It isn’t ideal for golf lovers, as there is no golf course on the island, but if you love wine, food, and relaxation, and most importantly the welcoming attitude of the people of St. Barths, this is the Caribbean island for you.
Hôtel St Barth Isle de France/La Case de L’Isle de France
Baie des Flamands, P.O. Box 612, 97098 Saint Barthélemy, French West Indies
Telephone (800) 810-4691 & (011) 590 27 61 81
Fax (011) 590 27 86 83
http://www.isle-de-france.com
To December 20 & after may 1:Rooms $360-$545, bungalows and suites $500-$735
December 21-May 1:Rooms $470-$715, bunglalows and suites $650-$840. Rates include continental breakfast for two, airport transfer, room tax and service.
Restaurant price(moderate)
Restaurant "La Marine"
La Marine-Gustavia-97133-Saint Barthélemy
Telephone (011)590 27 68 91
Price (moderate)
Francois Plantation
Colombier 97133, St Barthélemy, French West Indies
Telephone (011) 590 29 80 22
http://www.francois-plantation.com
Price(expensive)
Au Port Gustavia
Rue du Centenaire
(011) 590-27-62-36
Traditional French and Creole menu.
Price(moderate)
Maya’s
Public Beach, outside of Gustavia
(011) 590 27 88 88
Fusion of Vietnamese, Thai and Creole cuisine.
Price(moderate)
Comptoir du Cigare at du Panama
6, Rue du General de Gaulle, Gustavia, 97133 Saint Barthélemy, F.W.I
Tel (011) 590 27 50 62
J.C. Taxi
Terre-Nueve, 97133 St. Barthélemy
0590 27 36 80
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